"I try to work with the material rather than force it to my own ends."

                                            ........ Gustav Stickley (1912 catalog)






Methods of Work

Unlike mass produced and limited production furniture, these pieces are one of a kind, made precisely to suit your needs.

All pieces are made of solid hardwoods with cherry or quarter sawn oak being the woods of choice. I take great pride in the selection of the wood and the time-consuming placement and matching of the grains and color. (With this attention to detail I can match grain selection for the drawer and apron so the grain flows across the piece.)

Traditional joinery is the most important part of the pieces I build... mortise & tenon, dovetails, sliding dovetails... All of my pieces are handcrafted, no computer controlled equipment is used and the pieces are hand sanded to bring out the beauty of the grain and prevent swirls that occur when using electric sanders.

The drawer glides are of all wood construction, no mechanical/metal glides are used.

No two pieces are alike. While the dimensions may be identical, the characteristics of the wood are clearly distinguishable to the eye making each piece a one-of-a-kind work of art. This is what sets my custom built furniture apart from all others.

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Comparing Pieces

  • Do they start with quality lumber; matching color and grain?
  • Are their drawers dovetailed at all four corners?
  • Are the drawer boxes solid wood or are they plywood?
  • Do their drawers slide on hardwood slides or are they mechanical slides?
  • Do they use pinned mortise & tenons, dovetails and sliding dovetail joints or the simplest, quickest joinery “to get the job done”?
  • Are the backs solid wood frame and panel or are they plywood?
  • Is the piece as nice to look at from behind as it is from the front?
  • Is the piece finished inside as well as out and are there any globs of glue or runs of finish where you don’t “usually” look?
  • Are critical junctions reinforced with corner blocks or apron spreaders when “maybe” they don’t have to be?
  • Are their pieces as nice to touch and use as they are to look at from across the room?
  • Do they constantly design and build with seasonal changes in humidity in mind?
  • Are they building each piece individually, or is there an assembly line building multiples of exactly the same piece?

I do all of these things and welcome the opportunity to discuss my work with you and one day you can visit to see first hand what I’m talking about. If this is not possible and you’re comparing furniture, I encourage you to ask these questions and to “see and feel the difference”.

"It is unwise to pay too much...but it is worse to pay too little.
When you pay too much, you lose a little money... and that's all.
When you pay too little, you sometimes lose everything, because
the thing you bought was incapable of doing what it was supposed to do.

The common law of business balance prohibits paying a little and getting
a lot... it can't be done. If you deal with the lowest bidder, it is well to add
something for the risk you will run, and if you do that, you will have enough
to pay for something better."

....John Ruskin 1819-1900

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Care and Protection


Although the quality exterior varnish I use boasts "U.V." protection, all woods will darken in time when exposed to direct light.

Everyday Wear - Reduce surface friction with a quality paste wax, furniture polish or lemon oil.

Contact with heat and moisture - Use hot pads, coasters and table cloths.

Spills - Wipe up with a damp sponge and dry with a soft cotton cloth.

These handcrafted heirloom pieces have a hand rubbed finish of (8) coats of tung oil and varnish or finished with (all hand rubbed) six coats of shellac (french polishing), two coats of varnish, followed by a wax coat and final buffing.

With very little care they will last a lifetime.

Fuming Tent

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